Andrew not only has students on projects in the Pyrenees, he also takes a fieldtrip to Assynt each year. This place has fond memories for both of us - we spent our first summer together up here - Quinag, Suilven, Canisp, Ben More Assynt, Stac Pollaidh, and of course Loch Assynt (heaves deep sigh here!). This is long ago now - before the Kylesku bridge was built and you caught a ferry over instead.
This is where we discovered the delight of watching shooting stars sitting on the beach at Achmelvich Bay; the gorgeous smoked food from the Achiltibuie Smoke House
- finest smoked salmon, smoked fish, smoked meats, organic food and cheeses from across Scotland; the spectular Falls of Kirkaig; and the Highland Stoneware Pottery now housed in a new facility by the shore of Loch Inver, and of course, Draught Porridge 105 - aka Glenfarclas 105 single malt whisky at the pub in Lonchinver.
Our first summer there was memorable not only for these, but for being wet! it rained every day - bur fared up by 6 every evening giving us wonderful views over the sea towards the Summer Isles. At least the rain kept down the midgies - alas in a time before Smidge. The only completely fine day we had in six weeks was that of the Assynt Highland Games, which was always held on the same Saturday in August - and on which according to tradition, it has never rained!
This entire area is covered in Geology students throughout May - June - July. The rocks here are amongst the oldest accessible in the world - mostly Lewisian Gneiss, Cambrian Quarzite, Durness Limestone and Moine Schist. For more info click here. There's also some great info on the history of geological map-making in the area.
I had to endure endless explanations of the geology of this area, not to mention subsequently typing (yes we're talking of the days of type-writers here!) it all up afterwards. I got quite good at recognising various structures - magmatic dikes were my favourite mostly 'cos they're damned easy to spot.
It was on our way up here in my beaten up little Moggy Minor Bergthora (Njal's wife from Brennu Njals Saga - dour but capable) that we discovered we both liked parodies. Our very first joint creation was "Mole of Kintyre" - "Small blind & furry but musically inclined, he plays on the bagpipes whenever he's a mind...." You get the idea!
Later, Andrew became "famous" - he's on YouTube singing it - for his Loch Assynt song:
"Long, long time ago, I can still remember how
the mapping used to make me smile.
And I knew if I had my chance, that I could make that clino dance,
And Andrew would be happy for a while,
But Loch Glencoul it made me shiver, had to cross that bloody river,
Midgies on the mountain, streams in spates like fountains,
And I can't remember if I had a fit when I found I'd got another tick
But mapping really made me sick the day my interest died!
And I started singing bye-bye to Loch Assynt Side,
They said it would be sunny but they bloody well lied,
The minibus broke down and we all nearly died,
Please don't make me go back outside!
Please don't make me go back outside!
And did you map that boggy ground, and did you follow the boundaries round,
And can you tell me where the imbricates go.
Or do you believe in Peach and Horne, do they inspire you dusk and dawn,
Or do they want to make you map real slow.
I know there must be thrusts somewhere, but are they here or are they there,
Covered up in bog, and hidden in the fog.
And the three men that I most avoid, Andrew, Chris and Geoffrey Lloyd,
They really got me quite annoyed the day my interest died.
And I started singing bye-bye to Loch Assynt Side,
They said it would be sunny but they bloody well lied,
The minibus broke down and we all nearly died,
Please don't make me go back outside!
Please don't make me go back outside!
There's more but it gets libellous - and don't even ask about the Eagles joke!
Back in the day, we camped at Achmelvich Bay, but with the student fieldtrip, they stay at the Inchnadamph Lodge close to the shore of Loch Assynt. The Lodge is self-catering, but there are a variety of hotels and restaurants in the region. Seafood is the great specialty with fresh-caught local labgoustines, crabs, lobsters, spineys and mussels.
Historically the area is McLeod country, but in 1993 the Assynt Crofters trust bought the North Lochinver Estate - the first crofters buy-out in Scotland.
Today new industries go side by side with the fishing and crofting tradition. I mentioned the Achiltiebuie Smokehouse that now sends out it's Summer Isles Foods far and wide through the internet, and the wonderful Highland Stoneware Pottery. Like the tweed from Harris, the Stoneware designers take their inspiration from the surrounding land and seascapes.
The area is intensely beautiful, midgies notwithstanding, so if you believe there's no such thing as bad weather, just the wrong sort of clothing, this place is a must. You'll find magnificent mountains, lochs, waterfalls, and coast. You'll find a wide range of accommodation to suit every pocket, great food, and a warm welcome.
No comments:
Post a Comment